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7rxc

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Everything posted by 7rxc

  1. Hi: I've only been at this a while now... This is a widely occuring situation for sure, but it seems to be more complex than simply malicious, or even absent mindedness, sloth,... whatever. I'm not sure that badgering someone about it is much use... but gentle reminders have some place... In fact I'm considering nudging someone myself... not out of anger but I moved my first TB a while back (not mine per se, but my first find and move on, retrieve and drop) It was picked up by someone and probably will see a placement somewhere appropriate. Last time I looked it was still in posession of the cacher... I don't see a problem there, he is probably searching for a good, goal oriented, not to be wintered in, and big enough cache. However... I'm just itching to see where he places it... but hasn't... the suspense is too much. One thing I have noticed is that there are lots of people caching that log into the cache, but never log here. They don't seem to be members here. They know where the caches are, collect coins and TB but don't ever place them anywhere. They do seem to log many of them out... and sign the logs as taking them... but don't seem to either place or log online HERE. As BD demonstrates there are many ways to check for info on the histories of both members and TB/GCs. In an aside to BD... is there a way to browse 'members' especially former as well as current? I'm terrible with names and such... Right now I'm searching for a TB that I hoped to pickup, but the logs said it was missing from the cache... I found the log entry that 'took' it and the name / date... my log for the cache mentions the taking and the date (sent also to the owner), but does not use the name which I wrote down but didn't remember completely... (I did give possibles to the owner though)... I have used my poor recollections to go through the Caches Found By section of the search mode.... not one comes back... not surprising since they don't seem to be online. I do know databases and am good at tracking things... I assume these are affiliated with a caching club/web site that is not GC.com and that is how they come up with the coordinates etc. I've seen a few that don't require membership to get coordinates etc. They may just get them from friends. Anyway... I just wondered about other tools for tracking histories and people... I like mysteries, be they missing caches, TBs, GC's almost as much as cacheing. Speaking of GC's, I know this is the TB section, but I notice that many suppliers supply neat little racks for displaying GC's... I wonder if THEY make it clear that they are for non trackables (owned or traded goods, not found) to their customers... There is a lot of emphasis on finding hidden treasure in the media and by implication 'finders keepers'. Doug VE7RXC
  2. I'm using an even older Garmin 45xl which was the last of the 4 ch units the 12 replaced... When out in the clear sky and not in a big hurry, it gets me zeroed in pretty well... better than say a topo sheet will. I do use a good compass also, since there is no compass on the unit. It does give bearing and distance to the GOTO waypoint from where it thinks it is... I just sight along the rough bearing and watch the distance go down. Plus a few tricks I'm still working on... If you are used to navigating with GPS and Compass it's not impossible to find a cache even under overhead cover... I just triangulate the bearings obtained from clear spots further out... Sometimes you just can't get readings, but then the ones the hider got were not likely any better... At least with a 12 you have auto averaging and 12 channel reception... I was working at a place that had an early GPS that was about the size of a small TV and weighed quite a bit. That was considered really compact way back... but it worked great. We only used it as a comparison to the GPS 12 unit we had and the features the big one did not. As for power hogs... I turn mine off when I'm not in the final stages of a hunt, saves a lot on battery but not a lot of time since it has to re aquire sats. Doug 7RXC
  3. I second the request for clarification, but... IF you want to convert from the GC.com DD MM.mmm to UTM grid... it's often there on the cache page. IF you want to convert that in the field, just enter the GC.com coordinates as a waypoint then change the GPS coodinate settings from that to UTM (or whatever else you wish to use). IF you want to find coordinates on the ground without using a map, and I assume the cache, you simply use the GOTO feature and move around following the bearing and range indications... range should diminish or you are not getting there!... IF you wish to plan the easiest route before hand, use the Driving Directions button on the cache page. IF you wish to see roughly the coordinates for the cache as relates to the ground, Use the Google Map box on the cache page... it will show you what is about the given coordinates, use satellite , map or terrain as needed... Anything else, we are waiting clarification. Doug VE7RXC
  4. I am also new to caching, but have been navigating for a while... First thing... I haven't seen it mentioned in this thread, but make sure your GPS is set for WGS84 datum... it is the usual default these days, but IS the one used by Geocaching.com... Hunt with the coordinate system you like but don't confuse your settings... Around here, most of the topo maps are either old NAD 27 or newer NAD83 (basically the same as WGS84) and there is a 200 x 10 metre difference in the locations given... I've tried the NAD83 and suspect that even the 'sameness' isn't that 'same'.. Try using your compass to sight along the bearings given from a bit further back... That implies using the GOTO feature and that you entered the coordinates you are looking for. Make sure that your GPS really knows where you are... I was demonstrating for a social club here the other day and even in the clear sky view available, something was wrong... my quickly placed demo cache was NOT where I thought due to a bad MARK... don't know how, but it was off by several hundred feet... during the demo it was taking me away from the hide I could see... the compass was disoriented as well in a few spots... something is buried there I'm sure... don't know what. Speaking of compasses... if you use one for triangulation or sighting, make sure you know which bearing you are using... and which the GPS is giving you... TRUE north, Magnetic north or some thing else (UTM Grid north eg.)... Most of all have fun... I've gone back several times and agree that once you get close, it pays to think like the sneaky so and so who hid the cache... I'm real lucky there! comes natural... Doug VE7RXC
  5. The limiting of "wilderness" areas such as Denali NP is likely based on serious ecological concerns as to the ability of the area to tolerate the mess left behind by visitors... and the ability to track/rescue those visitors. A visit to the CANADA forum will show how Parks Canada deals with caching generally...(first pinned item). They ALLOW it, but there are restrictions based on valid concerns... I certainly am concerned with ecology, historical preservation etc. and have no problem with the limits... I know that you can't and should not have a cache everywhere! Anyway, good luck those attempting to resolve the issue Stateside... BTW it is an election year for both our countries, isn't it? Doug VE7RXC
  6. It IS... but they probably can get permission in some of the area with the bridge as a center point for the group of caches... Nice area though... They could check out the cache that was blown up by the Ottawa bomb squad not too long ago... on a local transportation bridge (pole)... even Canada is getting a little more paranoid in the 2000's. Sorry I forget the url but it is easy to search out. Doug. Late EDIT... Trying this http://www.metronews.ca/ottawa/local/article/88439 it was thought to be GC1DT9M now archived...
  7. First off, thanks to you guys for the single cell charging info... I won't replace things yet, but I'll look at it. As for stuff about the tech side of rechargeables, I'll mention a couple of many websites that have good information... there are lots more of course... For General Information and a bit more: www.batteryuniversity.com, or www.buchmann.ca For a different more techy bit... www.powerstream.com/NiMH.htm I've run out of my depth almost already... Doug VE7RXC
  8. Thanks, I tried... I'll have to get in and edit that a bit... was getting late here, but a bit of reading between the words should help... There are several excellent sites I've found on recharging NiMh batteries and also NiCd cells, and I assume everything else. They all have pro's and cons, of course. My current project NiMh cell has been wanting to be kept up to charge fine... but that is voltage only I suspect. I'm stuck with one cell that was flat. So while I'm looking for another one to charge alongside, I've been trying to see if I can keep the voltage to stay at 1.2 +/- and how it takes discharging to one volt.. so far it is looking good like some of the others I've succeeded with. As for that, I'm about 1/3 sucessful, 1/3 failed (but no explosions), and 1/3 weren't worth trying... Another point, is that I never use reconditioned cells in serious situations... like for SAR or in critical communications stuff... As for why recondition... the subject was economics of rechargeables... and free stuff discarded by others is certainly economic... I just wait for the cursing to start and offer to take the dead cells of the persons hands. Given rules about dumping batteries in garbage, I can get what I require with a little effort and time. My best hauls were 25 amp Hour Sealed lead acids back in 92... 6 pack for 12 volts... still going strong. They were from those hallway lighting systems for emergency lighting... Get to know your local service guy... But DON'T TRY to use them in your GPS... to heavy. Doug VE7RXC
  9. I have used that technique for assembled batteries, and zapping for cells... Nicads that is... There are some reasons why it doesn't work all the time of course as you probably know... usually baked off cells -no electrolite left... etc. I have used a similar method to recover 'flat' Nimh cells individually... but only use an old GelCell cube charger for 6 v leadacid batteries... not much current... My subject cell usually has no voltage detectable, and resists any attempt at normal charging in a charger... especially with a good but discharged cell. Same thing... plus to plus, minus to minus, but I make and break contact over several seconds, again to avoid heat build up. After that, the voltage is usually up above 1.2 v and I leave it for a while... that gives some of the buildup to clear... when I have two (why do chargers always need two at a time... I know of course, economics and practicality... 1.4 v regulators are rare, higher values are cheaper) anyway two cells, I put them on the charger for a charge cycle... after a few days charged, a recondition cycle. Old Nimhs need that c-d-c-d now and then... for that matter so do Nicads... Voltage is only part of the problem, a thing called ampacity is what causes batteries to go dead quickly... that build up you mentioned reduces it. Higher voltages burn it away slowly... charging uses higher voltages (and sometimes currents)... By the way the problem with fast charging cells is the way cells deal with gas generation... and recombination... excess gas is vented off, never to return... burnoff. High charge rate cells combine more and more quickly, not that much difference though... you are correct... low and slow is best ... unless. You covered most of my points well... Doug VE7RXC
  10. I've been catching up on reading this thread... I haven't seen what kind of batteries you are using... The Rule is that most rechargeables NiCd or NiMh should not discharge below 1 volt per cell when used as a battery... that is 6 cells nominally 7.2 volt battery should never go below 6 volts. Most devices have this built in as a cutoff ( actually cells x 1v for what ever you use ) I have a 45xl (an older unit) and it cuts off at 4 volts, 4aa x 1v). This prevents problems with mismatched cells. At lower voltages the weakest cell drops a bit faster, and can get into a situation where it actually reverse charges from the other cells... that is it ends up effectively in backwards... and then it will drag down the voltage when you try to charge it... not good... As for Using cells for other things after they come out of your GPS etc. I often use them for flashlights and use them til they dim... not totally dead. I like the NiMh batteries myself, use the recondition mode every couple of months... One can talk about battery life, but I prefer to conserve juice... the GPS is turned off except when I'm navigating or marking a waypoint for my return trip... I don't like depending on the auto track... just mark the car, major turns/hazards, and the target as waypoints... I get good use out of my 4aa's and always have spare alkalines in case. Mine has power saver mode as well. Biggest thing is timing the cache trip... I always try to recharge the night before if possible for max effect. I can't find time for more than a few hours of actual hunting... but frankly the laptop is a bigger battery life problem than the GPS. Doug VE7RXC
  11. Not quite the same, but likely related... I was looking for caches within a certain distance (in miles) of a known cache... using the 'unfound by me' feature on the cache listing (similar wording at least, sorry). The maximum range appeared to be about 50 miles radius, but at least one cache listed as being at the desired range and rough bearing was in the right direction, but at least 400 miles away in another state... I have to go back and see if that replicates on another session, but it leaves me wondering how accurate that mode is... On another example and situation, don't you just hate it when that same mode gives you the 'crowflies' distances, not the one you have to drive to get anywhere close... I use the google map display to confirm the area... may not matter in the flatlands, but anywhere mountainous without passes... it's a whole different ball game. Doug VE7RXC
  12. Wow was I ever off. I was asking this question concerning the hand helds that I would carry in the woods and not one for in a car. Told you I was a neophite!!! Thanks John Antennas are covered in several GPS oriented sites... just don't ask me to recommend one of hand! Generally the rules say that the best antenna can see the most satellites, receive them clearly and without anything effecting the signal path (blockage or reflection/multipath) will work the best. Certainly one that is designed to work with the receiver in question stands the best chance of being successful, but if it cannot see the sky from inside / under some cover you haven't got a chance. I use an older Garmin 45xl with an 'external' antenna which mounts on a BNC type jack... It can detach and another antenna attached for use on the car/boat or whatever... The 'factory' antenna swivels around the axis of the jack which allows for a bit of leeway in how you hold the unit. It can lay flat, stand up on end, or some angle between. Also folds alongside for storage (don't expect it to read much that way). One down side is that if you disconnect the stock antenna you can lose or forget it when disconnected and spend much time searching for it or a replacement (good luck when it's discontinued item). But being old unit has not stopped it working well for me.
  13. Doug here... from Elkford, BC. That's East Kootenays for those who care to look for it. Lots of Caches around this area, not all that many yet right at home, but Highway 3 runs thru a lot of good ones plus a few head scratchers... or at least head rubbers such as the Worlds Largest Truck at Sparwood... Big truck, tiny cache... Have been too busy reading everything on the forums, and forgot to check into this topic. Nice to meet you all.
  14. Try a 2nd hand shipping container... they are big enough (some), and weather proof if you shop to avoid rusted out ones... Just paint them whatever you wish... Heck you might get some US Army surplus already in camo.
  15. I know of your concept of talking stick and have used it with Scouts... and the PENCIL/PEN route is the most likely version in caching, I agree. Another device, that I have been using is a TRACKING Stick... which is often a walking stick modified with movable markers for indicating stride and footprint lengths, sometimes widths or stagger... Aside from being something to prop me up, I have managed to locate one cache with it by tracking the last finder... I'm not very good at tracking yet, mostly I just check to make sure I'm following a person, not a BEAR. Good Luck..
  16. Hi there... etrex ancient??? I'm still using my 45xl 4 channel... and it still gets me where I need to go... It is a bit more dodgy in trees and canyons though... Still working on techniques for those spots... or pass. Another problem I find is in overall precision... most times the processor can only give me several metres at best radius... however I can't afford to dispose of it, the darn thing was expensive back in the 90's. Still shopping for a newer one though.
  17. In the original, the problem was one of landowner relations... in the case of that or safety considerations, ecological or other concerns, a slightly more specific guide to parking and trailhead would seem appropriate. It's not required in most cases I agree. I've not been at this long, but I also ran into problems due to the difference between closest approach point and most desireable approach point Doug
  18. Try either give the coordinates for the parking area instead of the cache... give the cache coordinates as an additional waypoint, or just as part of the description/ info text. Or possibly put a 2nd cache by the parking area with the prime cache coordinates as a 'prize'. Either way has been done many times... and the result is that the directions take you to the trail head. I like the real coordinates in the text part, since parking lot caches seem to disappear...
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