Karma Hunter

Hmmm. I can definitely see the potential safety benefit of this. However I can also see how a less honest person finding your vehicle might read it as "The owner of this vehicle is far away. Please vandalize or steal." Also not sure I'd want to inform strangers that I'm in the woods (probably alone or I wouldn't be leaving a note) and here is where you can find me. Which probably sounds cynical, but better safe than sorry. Maybe instead you could leave the note inside the car, but without all the info showing. If you're worried that no one would find it in time if you needed help, maybe you could have a geobuddy (online or by phone) who you share your cache plans with before leaving. If you aren't back by a certain time, please contact authorities and send them to xxxx coordinates?

Yowzaah! Nice bike, but no front or rear suspension? Can't say I'm surprised about the back pain. Would've been cheaper just to pay someone to hit you with a big stick. Less fun though. Hope the recumbent helps. They're great solution for a lot of people.

I have one and LOVE it. But not so much for caching. I've used camelbaks for years for hiking and biking, but I find them (and all backpacks) annoying if you need to get things out of them very often. Either you're constantly taking it on and off, or many of the things that start out in the pack end up in pockets. I have a very small (8x5x2) fanny pack that carries the essentials, and because I can spin it around my waist without unbuckling it I find that I don't end up with stuff in my hands or pockets much. The downside is that it's too small to carry water, but that's fine for caches with less than three miles or so of hiking (which is most caches). Going farther? Throw your already loaded little geo-bag into a larger pack and you're off. Items I carry in addition to those mentioned are a lighter (though I've never really needed it), and a six foot length of p-cord to use as a dog leash (or whatever else). I clean my camelbak less than once a year. I've heard people say they can make you sick, but it's never happened to me, despite visible mold growth. Seriously. Sometimes it sits for a few days, sometimes a month or two. No problems. An alternative to cleaning is to keep the reservoir in the fridge or freezer when not in use to inhibit bug growth. I don't bother though, I just leave it in the house, the car, or wherever and hope for the best.

For those who are interested in knowing what Magellan has to say about the issue of cracks in Sportraks, I've started a thread here. It is separate so we can keep this one fairly streamlined as count of units with cracks. Still collecting data here, so keep posting.

I already started a thread which is a poll of all Sportrak owners to determine how many Sportraks have cracks in their cases (76% of over 50 units, and still counting). Based on the date codes everyone provided (also summarized in the thread), there does not appear to be a "bad batch" or a time period where something was done wrong. Sportraks appear to have an overall design flaw with a 3 in 4 chance of failure. There is also at least one report of a "repaired" unit failing. There is also already a thread which touches on the subject of how Magellan has reacted to requests to have cracked cases repaired, however in that thread only 3 of the 46 posts are from users with first-hand experience. So here is the point of this thread: If you have a Sportrak with cracks and have contacted Magellan, what has their response been? Much like the poll to see how many users have cracks, I'm not looking for lots of discussion and opinions. Just a straightforward list of the first-hand experiences people have had with Magellan/Thales and their handling of Sportraks with cracks. If you would like to include any dates, or especially the names and/or phone numbers of people you have talked to that would be extremely helpful. Hopefully we will be able to see a pattern (or randomness) in how the issue has been handled, which will make it possible for the large number of people who have yet to contact Magellan to do so in an educated manner, and possibly as a group. And yes, to save people the trouble of saying so, it does suck that Magellan/Thales has been so unresponsive (and possibly misleading) about this problem that we have to go through this tedious process to get it fixed. In order to keep whatever good will they have left in this forum, we'll hope they begin taking the "it's our fault and we'll fix it" approach rather than "we already have your money so screw you." No more rant, looking for first-hand experiences...

This is a summary of the Sportrak poll to date: Total with cracks: 39 (76%) Total without cracks: 12 (24%) Date codes range from 1502 to 4203. Reported date codes without cracks are: 2202, 2302, 3102, 3302(x2), 4102, 4702, 0203, 2503. And the usual disclaimer: 5 of 40 were reported without date codes, but I've chosen to include them in the totals anyway. Also, anyone who reported bulging, discoloration, etc at the bolts without actual cracks (only a couple), got counted as having cracks because I didn't want to make a new category, and the issue at hand is structural integrity, and I would say their problem counts. Sportrak Color models are not included because they have a different type of case. It's never too late to add more posts. I'll do another summary in a few days. Thanks!

No, it's not. The meridians have a totally different case. However, meridians could stand to have a better lanyard attachment point. Overall they are excellent units with some cool and unique features, despite being larger than Sportraks.

Some lumbar packs have a supplemental bandolier (or some such name) strap. Basically a single strap that goes from the pack, diagonally across the chest, over the shoulder, and diagonally down the back to the pack again. Some people use it to carry the pack casually without using the hip belt, but they can also be used together. Most of the weight is carried by the hip belt, but the shoulder strap could maybe prevent droopage in your case, while being more adjustable than the standard backpack shoulder straps. Another idea (way more dorky) might be to attach long suspenders to a lumbar back. Better adjustability for height than a traditional pack, and the old timers swear by them for holding up pants. Can't say I've tested these ideas myself as I'm of middle of the road height and have a 3D butt, but I hope they help. PS- If you want a bigger caboose, bicycling tends to develop those muscles and could give you the firm semi-circular booty you've always dreamed of. And yes, it is possible to get bikes in your size. Not easy (and maybe not cheap), but very possible. Let me know if need help locating one. It's my job...

Had I been drinking milk, it would have come out my nose!

Probably not. Not sure exactly how Magellan does it, but some companies offer no additional warranty beyond the first year (even if you get your replacement the last day of the year). The more generous companies might offer soemthing like 90 days on the new item, or the remainder of your one year, whichever is longer. They do this to avoid the possibility of giving you a new product annually for the rest of your life. Occasionally, if the company recognizes a general defect in a particular product (coughsportrakcrackscough) they will extend the warranty to cover that particular problem for longer than the time period of the standard warranty (and hopefully redesign it to so that you aren't without your product every few months as it goes bad again.). This is their way of saying "it's our fault and we're sorry" which is a very different message from "we already have your money so screw you."

Ahhh patience. I think I have some, but it is largely occupied by doing constant battle with curiosity. I'm glad to hear someone is pursuing the big picture with Thales. I didn't want to have to be the one to file a class action lawsuit. Since you're acting on behalf of the group, I'm sure those who are following this thread would enjoy hearing some details about the conversations you've had, even if they are preliminary.

Excellent thread! Thanks for all the great info and debate. Not to get too far off track, but this caught my eye. Nincehelser, I'm guessing there's more to finding old coins then going out in my backyard with a shovel. It sounds like fun. Where can I learn more?

Well, I did say earlier in this thread. I promise I wasn't making it up. It does seem odd though that some have it and some don't. The Team Flushingrouse Lanyard looks great! Will you be trademarking the name Flushing Lanyard? Any plans to make a long version to replace the lanyard screw on Sportraks that holds the battery compartment shut? I feel like I'm gonna break it every time I change batteries...

Is your scratch on the back half of the case (directly under the bolt head), or on the front half of the case (the part the bolt threads into)? The one on the back cover (although it is most obvious in the photo) is unusual. The common crack is a line on the front cover in line with the screw, often accompanied by a slight bulge. In the photo it is a faint white line which is less pronounced than the line under the bolt head. If you wanted to examine it you would not be able to see more of it by taking out the screw without also separating the two halves of the case and removing the rubber gasket. In many cases the crack is so developed that this is unecessary. Your case may indeed be fine. I just wanted to be sure people are looking in the most likely place. Either way, don't forget to include a date code. Thanks!

I hope no one takes this too personally, but the problem isn't the sales people, it's us. Right here: Look at how many threads in these forums are about where to get the cheapest 60c or whatever else is cool this week. "I've found the whosiwatsit at Megamart for $367.82, but I really want to save another $4.50 and I'm willing to spend hours doing it. Can anyone help me?" Have you ever ever seen a thread about where to get great customer service? Even if it costs a little more? You can't have it both ways. By supporting the big box retailers, whether it's for paper, a 60c, or whatever, you perpetuate the problem. I'm not saying don't do it (I shop there too); just don't look so surprised that the teenager with no training who gets paid minimum wage doesn't have NASA level knowledge about the one particular item you happen to know about in a store full of literally thousands of products. I would agree with Indian Cojones that you may not have witnessed the sales horror you perceived. Yes, there are salespeople out there who are lousy people. But there are lousy geocachers in the world too. It doesn't make sense to judge the many for the actions of the few. Regarding the GPS salesperson in question, I find it pretty difficult to be mad at someone if they're putting in effort. Be mad at the system (and yourself for the role you play in it), but in the grand scheme of things the employee who is assigned to a department they don't know or understand well is just as much a victim of corporate lameness as you are. I don't know that it merits this reaction: If you shop only for price, and not for customer service, in the long run you'll get exactly what you pay for. And as Blindleader said, you'll hate it.

To keep this thread somewhat uncluttered, let's assume the default is that there hasn't been any user-caused damage. In other words, rather than have the 50 or so people who have already responded to the poll come back again and answer this question, just respond if you believe your cracks were caused by user error. Based on the number of brand new models reported with developing cracks, I'm going to guess that not too much of what is being reported is due to abuse. Yes, the case is different. That's why the Sportrak Color isn't being included in the poll.

Before I sound like an ingrate, I must say that I really appreciate the work that goes into creating a cache, and I'm very thankful for all the people who put their time and energy into hiding things for others to find. That said, I do have a small complaint... I recently looked for a cache which I did not find. After searching for some time I decoded the Hint which read: It did not say anything else. The cool tree was easy to spot, as the coordinates already had me standing near it. Which is exactly the problem. The hint was useless. Straight away in what direction? How far? Under something? And so on. It didn't add anything at all to the information I already had. I'm not the most experienced cacher in the world, but please understand that I do like puzzles. I don't like to use Hintsl, except as a last resort. There is a cache near my house that I've failed to find twice, and instead of decoding I've chosen to come back again and try more without the Hint. So what is my point? I'm all for vagueness and puzzles in the general cache description. It's a big part of the fun. But, it seems to me that Hints should be specific. Basically that they should say pretty much exactly where the cache is. An idea I REALLY like is having TWO paragraphs in the Hints where the first is a little Hint to push you in the right direction, and then the second completely gives the location away. Or something along those lines. But at some point I would like to have pretty specific information so that I can determine whether the cache still exists. The cacher before me could not find the "unusual tree" cache either. With more specific info I could have helped the owner determine whether the cache had gone AWOL. I'm sure others will not agree with me on this, and might say I want something that contradicts the whole spirit of caching; but regardless, I would enjoy hearing any and all thoughts on the subject of Hints.

This is a summary of the Sportrak poll to date. I'm doing this summary so soon after the last one, because this thread has now rolled over into its second page. For those who haven't visited this thread before, please read page one before posting so we can keep things consistent and clutter-free. Sportrak poll summary to date : Reported Date Codes range from 1502 to 3603. Total with cracks: 30 (75%) Total without cracks: 10 (25%) Reported Date Codes without cracks are: 2202,3102, 3302, 4102, 4702, 0203, 2503. 5 of 40 were reported without date codes, but I've chosen to include them in the totals anyway. Also, anyone who reported bulging, discoloration, etc at the bolts without actual cracks (only a couple), got counted as having cracks because I didn't want to make a new category, and the issue at hand is structural integrity, and I would say their problem counts. Sportrak Color models are not included because they have a different type of case. Please keep adding posts. I'll do another summary in a few days. Thanks!

Not exactly true when you consider that your MeriGreen is out of warranty, and thus, form Magellans perspective, it is worth $0. The question is how much it is worth to you, now that it has no backlight. They can offer you a Meriplat for $209 that you can get from Amazon for $240ish. Is your green without light worth keeping for $31? Is it worth $120 to fix it? The fact that they'll offer you anthing at all out of warranty is better than most companies would offer. If it were me I'd just keep it as a spare, and get a new one somewhere else for primary use. Your priorities may be different. As a third option, if you decide the problem is hardware not firmware, you could get a broken green on ebay cheap and take the backlight from it yourself, if you're technically inclined.

True. And there's probably one you can visit within a few miles of your house. It's really the only way to have a "reference" point. In the grand scheme of things (GPS things anyway), 30 feet is pretty good. Unless your unit always measures 30 feet off in a specific direction (and a benchmark or two will help you determine that), getting 30 feet of accuracy is pretty standard for the real world. Good observation skills are often more helpful than GPS readings when you're within 30 feet. For what it's worth, even the best units rarely get better than 10 feet of accuracy. Ten feet is about what I average with my Sportrak Map, but you may find using benchmarks that that's how close you're getting too. By the way, check your EPE (at least that's what it's called on Magellans) or Estimated Position Error at the times you take a reading. Your unit's reception varies constantly, so it will tell you how "accurate" (i.e.- within how many feet) its data is at any given time. This can mean that even if you show a distance of 30 feet to a waypoint, if your EPE is, for example, sixty feet, you're really only getting within sixty feet accurately. Perhaps I'm not explaining it well, but check for it in your manual. Also, be sure to read your manual to see how to hold your unit for best reception (vertical, horizontal, etc). It does make a difference.

Here is the Sportrak poll summary to date: Date Codes range from 1502 to 3603. Total with cracks: 26 (79%) Total without cracks: 7 (21%) Date Codes without cracks are spread throughout: 2202,3102, 3302, 4102, 4702, 0203, 2503. Also 2 with cracks and 3 without, for which no date codes were provided. Please keep adding posts. The more data we have, the more accurate it will be. I'll summarize again in a few days. Thanks!

Since you brought it up, the Sportrak poll thread can be found here.

I have had no problems with Mapsend Topo, given my needs and expectations. Road accuracy is not stellar when you zoom to the level of one-lane gravel roads (or 100 feet of elevation), but I expected this from reading the forums. Keep in mind that this program has the entire United States, every road and topo feature, on one CD. The level of detail isn't (and isn't intended or claimed to be) equivalent to a USGS Topo quad. If it were it would cost more and take up a whole lot more memory. It would help to know roughly where you are. I haven't explored all areas of the maps, but so far I haven't found that any areas are missing. By "not shown" do you mean they are blank?

The stats to date: Date codes range from 15/02 to 36/03. 16 with cracks, 7 without. Those with cracks cover the full spectrum of dates. Those without are spread around (22/02, 47/02, 02/03, plus 4 with no dates provided). Yes, I'm a geek, I put them in a spreadsheet for easy viewing. To answer (or re-answer?) two questions asked in posts above, 1) the date code (D/C) is a four digit number inside the battery compartment indicating the date the unit was manufactured. The first two digits are the week, the second two are the year. And 2) if your unit has cracks, no, it is no longer waterproof. Keep adding more posts. I'll update the stats every few days. Thanks!

Cherokeecacher, not only is the purpose of this thread different, but your link is the same as the one in my post that started this thread. As Roswell.fr indicated, by hearing from all Sportrak owners, including those who do NOT have problems, we can figure out roughly what the odds are of developing problems. Including the D/C code is an excellent idea, and may help us figure out if there is a "bad batch" (maybe with bad plastic?), or whether the design of the shell is faulty overall, and the plastic, no matter what type, is simply to thin at those points to handle the load. So again, ALL Sportrak owners please respond, and including the D/C code would be great too. My STM (with cracks) has D/C 3603.