Jeepergeo

John Muir went out with a canvas pack on a wood frame (and sometimes a mule). His journals suggested he had fun. To have fun backpacking or camping, one does not need a bunch of fancy gear. For me, new gear must 1) Extend my camping or backpacking season or 2) Improve my comfort or safety or 3) replace something worn out or 3) provides recreation before I put out hard earned dollars. A friend of mine can't understand how he ever backpacked without his "Spot". I for the life of me cannot figure out why I'd ever want to buy one of those things...maybe when I'm older, but for now, I continue to like to at least feel I'm flying under the wire. Yeah, I do take my GPS for playing around, but still rely primarily on the good old USGS topo that you can now download and print for the cost of the paper, and my 40 year old Boy Scout compass.

Come on folks...the cache proposal (private) is a great idea and different. It sure beats getting the knees all dirty Good luck which ever way you ask her!

A decent starting point: http://www.localhikes.com/search.asp Otherwise, Google the area of interest and "hiking" and you'll come up with all sorts of leads.

The "cook in the bag" dehydrated food means only having to boil water and no clean up. The food is good, but not great. If I do cook something and get a pot dirty, I always put a little extra water in the kettle and let it get to a boil while I eat. A few drops of Camp Suds, a little boiling water, and a green pad is all is takes. This process is never fun, and I really hate to do it in bear country. I sometimes rinse in fresh, unfiltered water. In those cases, I make sure the next time the pot is used the water comes to a boil, just in case there was any contamination in the rinse water. Of course, this is not a problem if filtered or disinfected rinse water was used. If you want to make your own cooking boil bags, get the Heat Seal or Seal a Meal bags that are used with vacuum and heat sealers. These taking boiling water quite well, and will not melt with some grease (if you have cooked bacon inside, the grease only gets to 212 degrees and won't melt the bag...but hot grease might.

Definitely consider used equipment. Garage sales will take a bunch of time, so try searching on Craig's list. When you see a tent or pack you like, go check it out and while there with the seller, try to negotiate to buy more than listed. Most likely, the person selling has other gear too, and they might let it go as a buyer's bonus for cash. Used is great if you are just starting out. As you backpack and camp, you will gain experience with the attributes of your gear and learn what you like and don't like, and then you can replace things with new gear that optimally fits your needs as you get the cash. Just reading this post you'll see that everyone that does this stuff much has their own opinion on what is best. Remember, what works well for you IS the best gear. Also, at 14, you might consider joining Boy Scouts. Check out a few Troops in your area and find one that hikes, backpacks, and camps...many have monthly trips year round and a week trip in summer. You might even find that you want to pursue ranks...but if not, you can just hang back and learn camp craft and outdoor skills and have a heck of a good time. Many troops have loaner equipment, or you might buy some gear from other kids that are looking for a change.

The mystery of Everett Ruess' disappearance is solved. An aging Navajo man's story of witnessing a homicide and burying the victim leads to remains -- and leads scientists to the answer to a 75-year puzzle. By Thomas H. Maugh II May 2, 2009 http://www.latimes.com/news/nationworld/na...0,7055090.story His name might not rank with Amelia Earhart's and Judge Crater's, but the disappearance of Everett Ruess has been an enduring legend of the Southwest for 75 years. Only 20 at the time of his disappearance, the writer, artist and environmentalist who has been compared to a young John Muir was last seen near Utah's Davis Gulch in 1934. Numerous search parties failed to find him, and authors have speculated widely about his demise. Many believed he drowned in the Colorado River. Modern forensic technology, however, has shown that a weathered skeleton discovered last year by a young Navajo investigating an old family secret is that of Ruess, who was apparently killed by Ute teenagers, Colorado researchers said Thursday. "I am pretty well convinced that this has got to be Everett," said author W.L. "Bud" Rusho of Salt Lake City, who has written extensively about Ruess. Questions remain about the fate of Ruess' journals, box camera and other belongings, but the discovery caps a story that has been the subject of books, documentaries and abiding speculation. Ruess had roamed the Southwest for four years, sending home elegant letters to his family, composing poems, and producing intricate wood carvings. Despite his young age, he was a confidant to Western artists, including Dorothea Lange and Ansel Adams. In his last letter to his family, Ruess wrote: "As to when I shall visit civilization, it will not be soon, I think. I prefer the saddle to the street-car, the star-sprinkled sky to a roof." His slaying was apparently witnessed by a young Navajo man, Aneth Nez. After a 37-year silence, Nez told his granddaughter, Daisy Johnson, that he had watched from Comb Ridge near the Utah-Arizona state line as three Utes killed a young white man. Nez asked her to take him to the site above Chinle Wash where he had buried the body in a crevice. Memories of the event had been haunting him, and he wanted to retrieve a lock of hair for a healing ceremony. Last year, Johnson told her younger brother Denny Bellson about the episode and took him to the area of the grave. In a telephone news conference arranged by National Geographic Adventure magazine, where the new findings are being reported, Bellson said he found the grave site in an hour and a half. "When I looked in the crevice and saw the top of the skull there, I knew it was him," Bellson said. Also at the site was his grandfather's saddle, which had been left behind because it had gotten bloody. Bellson called in the FBI, which investigates homicides on Native American territory. After a cursory investigation at the site in which agents shattered the skull, the FBI concluded the victim was a Navajo "and that I was wasting their time," he said. But the remains were excavated by Ron Maldonado, the Navajo Nation's supervisory archaeologist, and sent to anthropologist Dennis Van Gerven of the University of Colorado at Boulder. Van Gerven had never heard of Ruess and was "actually not interested," he said, but persistent inquiries from David Roberts, a contributing editor at National Geographic, persuaded him to examine them. He and graduate student Paul Sandberg concluded that the bones belonged to a white victim, age 20 to 22, who stood about 5-foot-8. After reconstructing the skull and photographing it, they superimposed the image on pictures of Ruess taken by Lange and found them to be a perfect match, particularly the teeth. "Everybody's teeth are unique in size, shape and spacing," Sandberg said. "Nothing excluded Ruess." The team then called in molecular biologist Kenneth Krauter, also of the University of Colorado, who extracted DNA from a femur and compared it to DNA from four of Ruess' living nieces and nephews. Examining about 600,000 sites across the entire genome, he found matches at about a quarter of the locations, the proportion expected for nieces and nephews. As a control, he ran the DNA against samples from 50 people chosen at random and found less than a 1% match. "The evidence is irrefutable that the bones are from a close relative of the four," Krauter said. "Combined with the facial reconstruction, that makes this an irrefutable case." But some mysteries linger. Ruess' two burros were found 60 miles from the grave. And he had told his family he was heading southwest from Escalante, Utah, yet was found due east of there. "There are questions we will never know the answers to," Rusho said. thomas.maugh@latimes.com

I did a week of mountain biking on Catalina Island with my son a few years back. It beat me to death - sore arms, sore legs, and sore backside. Admitted, I did not prepare for the trip by biking, and I paid the price. In our group of 15, we had several falls, and one resulted in an emergency trip off the island. My preference now is to go into the backcountry on foot.

For urban caching, I use a waist pouch to carry the basics - a phone, pen, GPS, leave-behinds, batteries, and a few personalized calling coins. For trips outside the urban area, I always take a somewhat large day pack, currently a Kelty Redwing 3100. I load the pack down with the Ten Essentials, a few trail food bars, and plenty of water (usually at least two 1-L Nalgenes). The 10-E's are tailored for the season. Bottom line, I'd easily survive in relative comfort if I ended up getting stuck for a few days or longer. I almost always use the water myself, but funny thing is, I often find myself loaning or giving somebody else something out of my pack, anything from a piece of Duct Tape (never go into the field without it), to bandages, to batteries, to water, to directions on the map. Invariably, the borrowers almost always say they never need this stuff and thus don't carry it - how ironic!

I like Garmin units, but their packaging is close to misleading when it comes to "what you get in the box." This is especially tough for someone new to GPS or someone trying to buy a gift for an experienced user. Why show a map on the box that does not come in the box and that the unit is not able to display without $119 more in expense and a half hour on the web waiting for unlock codes? I bought Street Navigator North America NT early this year, and all the maps were dated in June of 2008, 8 months ago. I figured there'd be a download update to get the maps current - well, there was, but the update was $69! I called Garmin, and after a lot of faxing receipts and talking to customer service, they agreed to let me download map updates 1 time. I appreciated that, but thought it was a hassle to get to that point. If you get into this situation, keep calling/emailing Garmin. I got several "no ways" before getting a "yes." I also made the mistake of buying a Garmin unit to match the units our local Scout Troop uses (I matched up so I could simplify instructions for the kids (demonstrations, etc.)). It turns out that I can't use any of the protected maps on my new unit, even if the maps are only loaded to one unit at a time. So effectively, I have to buy a separate set of maps for each unit! Imagine having to buy a CD for each CD player for which you wanted to play the CD! This is so customer unfriendly that I suspect some will come to the table and unseat Garmin from their leadership position. I'm sure this will happen soon if Garmin does not make the map sets more obtainable and available for use on all the units an owner owns. A simple check when downloading to make sure only one copy is in use is not that difficult.

I go for minimal weight. Instead of my fleece going in the bag, I use it on the outside for softness. Typically, my jacket or pants go into my sleeping bag stuff sack for loft, and then the fleece gets wrapped around the stuffed bag to make the pillow. Not perfect, but it helps with my goal of everything doing double duty when possible.

There is no single answer to your question due to the huge number of variables and individual preferences. Don't underestimate the importance of socks. For years, I used liners under wool socks, with fair success. But not any more. I'm totally sold on the Thorolo brand of hiking socks with REI branded synthetic liner socks. The Thorolo socks come in several thicknesses (light hiking, hiking, backpacking weights or something like that). I like the REI branded synthetic liners as they tend to be a little heavier than some of the other brands. The Thorolo outers and synthetic liners are available at REI. And for best results, pick your socks first, and buy your boots with the selected socks on your feet. The comments regarding a good fit are right on. My Timberlands are size 10.5, and my Vasque are size 12. My previous pair of Vasque were size 10. For this reason, I highly recommend that you try on boots before buying them. I start with the size based on the foot measuring device at the store, and then have the sales staff bring out that size. After trying the boots on and assessing the general fit, I'll usually try the same style and brand of boot, but one half size and one full size larger and smaller. All told, you'll probably try on 3 to 5 sizes of the same boot to zero in on the correct fit. Make sure you are wearing the sock system you plan to use with your boots (see paragraph above). I have two pairs of hiking boots: one pair of boots is relatively light and flexible; and the other pair is heavier and stiff. Both pairs go to just above the ankle, and both have Vibram traction soles. The pair I choose to wear for a trip is selected based on the anticipated terrain and the load that I will carry. The former pair for easy terrain and light loads, the latter pair for rough terrain and heavier loads. The lighter pair are Timberland, and the heavier pair are Vasque. I never wear athletic type shoes hiking - they just don't provide the required foot protection I prefer.

Yes, the Garmin sign up is free and is good for your first few downloads, and may resolve the issue. However, the Premium Membership at geocaching.com is still a bargain as it provides enhanced means of filtering caches and downloading them to your device, something you'll no doubt want after a few geocaching adventures. (I do still like the Garmin routine for using a check mark to select multiple sites from a list and then simultaneously loading the sites to your device all at once with just one click.)

The GPSSTORE DOT COM is a great place to buy GPS units. They have great service and great prices. Sometimes they carry remanufactured gear at perhaps 30% off the new price, maybe better. This gear is factory remanufactured and warrantied, so it is hard to go wrong. The remanufactured gear probably gets more testing than brand new gear. Anyway, prices are reasonable to good, and the service is amazing. These folks know their product line.

MapSource was working great, no problems at all. Then I got a message to Update after installing CityNavigator. The new MapSource is Version 6.15.3 and it is causing problems. When I use either the right side or bottom scroll bar to move to a different location, the maps blank out and turn gray without any detail. The lower right side corner gives a message "overzoom". This seems to happen no matter what the initial zoom. When I use the Hand Tool to move, it does not seem to create the same problem. Is anyone else having this "overzoom" problem and have you found a fix you'd be willing to share? Also, if I go back to my previous version of MapSource, will I loose the unlock codes for CityNavigator?

Plastic wrap works great for protecting your pack while it is in transit, be it on a bus, train, UPS, or the back of a pick up. I have not tried this with airlines and TSA since 9-11, so you'll need to think that one through before flying. The process below sounds involved, but it really only takes about five or six minutes to prepare your pack for safe shipping once you've done the preparation work. Get ready. Purchase industrial plastic wrap at a U-Haul store that sell moving accessories (it's green). I found U-Haul to be much less expensive than the big box home stores. The wrap comes on a roll about 18" wide, with handles on each end to facilitate wrapping. A roll that will wrap maybe 10 packs cost about $10 bucks. Also round up a 1"x3"x18" piece of wood, a length of 18" 1/2" diameter rope, and destination and return address labels. Start here. Fully pack your pack as if you are ready to hit the trail. You can even have things hanging on the pack. The exception is that you must leave out 1) anything you'll need before you get to where you are going, and 2) any item restricted from shipping (fuel, etc.). You are not done yet. Stand your pack on end and wrap the plastic around the pack, streatching the plastic wrap as you go. It helps to have help with this process. Go around the pack about three times at the top, then slowly start to wind your way down to the bottom of the pack, with each round overlapping the previous set of wraps. When complete with this step, every layer will have at least three layers of wrap. You are not done yet. At this point, the top and the bottom of the pack will be the only parts of the pack visible. Now, lay your pack on its side, and wrap the pack from top to bottom. Remember, streatch the plastic wrap as you go. After a few laps, the pack will be completely covered, like a mummy. You are not done yet. Now, print a "destination label" on your printer. Use really large and bold type and completely fill a 8.5"x11.0" sheet of paper. Take this label and put it on top of the plastic wrapped pack, and then wrap over it about two wraps. The wrap is clear so your label will be easy to see. You are not done yet. Take a piece of 1"x3" wood, 18" long. Drill two 1/2" diameter holes in the center of the 3" face of the wood, 6" in from each end. Now, take an 18" length of 1/2" diameter rope and thread each end through one of the of the holes in the wood, and tie the two ends of the rope together in a square knot (if you can't tie a square knot, you might want to cancel the pack trip and stay at the lodge ). You have now made the handle for your mummy-wrapped pack. Adjust the size of the handle by adjusting the square knot. You are not done yet. Lay the wood and rope handle on the front or side of your pack, right on top of the mummy wrap. Try to locate the handle at the point where the back will be balanced when lifted by the handle. I like to have my handle on the side of the pack so that it will carry like a suitcase. Now, wrap the pack some more going around the handle and the rope. Remember to streatch the wrap and to overlap the previous wrap. Yes, you are now wondering why you didn't just put the handle down with the initial wrapping. Stay tuned, you will learn why. You are not done yet. Now, carefully, take a knife and cut a slit in the plastic along side the rope. Fish the rope through the slit. By putting the handle on last, your pack is essentially waterproof even though you cut the wrap to get access to the handle. You are now done. Extras hints. You'll never get your mummy pack to unwrap. To get at your pack, carefully cut the wrap using a sharp knife. For this reason, make sure you don't need anything out of your pack before you get to where you are going, and don't leave anything in your pack that will freak out TSA inspectors (e.g., MSR fuel bottles, propane canisters, etc.). Pre-print a return label if you plan to come home. Put the label in your pack before you start the wrapping process. If you plan to come home via public transportation, consider buying two roles of plastic. The first role will be wrapped to your pack. When you get to your destination, you can stash the extra roll of wrap, the return label, and handle, and then wrap your pack once the trip is over. Have a great trip!

I'm in agreement with you, especially your last couple of sentences. It sounds like you're a pretty responsible camper, and however you elect to camp, you'll leave minimal impact. The point of my original post was not indended to "knock" hammock users, but to stress Leave No Trace. I probably could have been a bit more clear. Roadtorqe (who himself admits in another forum that he's a hammock novice from Arizona) is the one that brought up "idiots" and I simply replied agreement that said folks are the problem.

I have Garmin Topo on CD, and down load it to the SD card via the PC - works great, and is pretty simple. I would like to use by 76 Csx for some vehicle navigation too, so I've been thinking about getting City Navigator. The City Navigator on a Card sounded good until I read your post. If I have City Navigator on a Card, then I won't have access to Topo, unless the Navigator card is pulled and a SC card is put in. Is this correct? Swapping cards sounds inconvenient. Is it safe to assume that Waypoints like geocaches can not be added to the City Navigator Card? So from what you noted, if I get City Navigator on DVD/CD, I could then load both topo and streets onto the same card. When in the field, how would one switch between Streets and Topo? I've looked all over the menus and can't find anything. Is this because I have not loaded any street maps yet? Any help would be appreciated.

I had signal issues on an Amtrak ride from California to New Mexico. A window seat (as opposed to the seat just 18" inward from the window), or a move to the observation car seemed to solve the signal issue. Apparently, glass and plexiglass don't block the signals as much as the metals in the bodies...it sounds like it may be the same thing on airplanes.

$159 is a great deal! My 76 CSx, which is a close cousin to the 60 CSx, was over $400 a little over year ago on Amazon. The Garmin mapping units like the 60 CSx are very capable for navigation, mapping, and geocaching, but their use, in my opinion, is not so intuitive that the typical, relatively new-to-GPS user would understand without studying the instructions. Switching from my Garmin 76 CSx to the Garmin 60 CSx for a weekend trip was nearly effortless, but then I'd read the instructions for the 76 CSx from cover to cover and had used it for nearly six months. When out caching, the abilty to have electronic versions of the cache page information would be a great tool, but so far, I have not figured out how to do that on either the 76 or 60 CSx - and reading the posts above suggests that it is not even possible - so I"ll continue to print the cache pages when I upload the location data from geocaching.com (that is easy to do).

Wild Boar was probably the one that got my heart pumping the most as it came tearing out of the brush. Once, while hiking along the beach in Northern California, I came across a herd of Roosevelt Elk - those things are huge, nearly as big as a horse. They eventually wandered from the beach back into the woods, and we were able to move on.

I've never run into any permit requriements to carry a knife while backpacking or camping in the US...hopefully it will never come to that...but "...these times they be a changin..."

"or be a complete idiot" pretty much sums it up. Some folks obviously don't get out much.

You might have the best luck looking for larger geocaches. On geocaching.com, you can look for geocaches near your location of interest. Once you have the potential geocaches located on the web site, review the description of each one. There's a box on each caches' page that tells you the relative size of the cache. A micro might be the size of a Chapstick container, whereas a medium cache might be the size of a military ammo box, whereas a large one might be the size of a small trunk. Usually, the larger caches are easier to find, and there's usually some fun treasure to look at inside. The micro caches often only have a log sheet. You should bring some trinkets to trade for other treasures in the larger geocaches. Once you've been to a few, you'll figure out something fun to bring with you for trading on the next trip. Always bring a pencil or pen so you can sign the log, and when you get home, make sure to go to geocaching.com to log the caches you find...it is kind of cool to keep track of things. I suggest having a stick with you too, somehing to use to poke around in bushes, etc., while looking for caches. Have fun!

Hammocks are pretty hard on trees...maybe they are best left to island resorts with ornamental landscaping. But then maybe, in some states, an occasional hammock hanging from a tree would be a minimal and reversible impact. The Leave No Trace approach to camping and backpacking is pretty essential here in California where the wilderness is pretty heavily utilized. That usually means no open fires, no hammocks, no rock structures - a small price to pay to preserve wilderness such that one does not have to observe the accumulation of previous users' impacts.

Mt. Charleston has several challenging hikes and nice vistas, and is close to Vegas. If you don't mind a drive, Joshua Tree National Park in California is absolutely amazing. Try the Jumbo Rocks area or Indian Cove area. Kelso Dunes in the Mojave National Preserve in California is also pretty cool, as is Hole in the Wall near Micthelle Caverns.