Jeep4two

I'm still getting into this activity like many of us. For me I've found (like most others) that the GPSr is going to get you close to GZ (Ground Zero) but may not always lead you to the exact spot. There are truly some hiders that do a great job of giving excellent coordinates and you'll learn to identify those hiders in your area over time. Some things that help me: 1) Slow down when you start to close in on GZ. Once I'm within 300 feet I start looking around to become more familiar with the details of my surroundings and use my GPS to guide me on in while also being very observant. 2) Hold your GPSr so you get the best signal possible once you start that slowdown. Out away from your body a bit with the face toward the sky can help improve accuracy as you close in potentially shrinking the search area. 3) Like the others said - don't get stuck on GZ. As you search the logical spots begin to expand your search area gradually thinking like a cache hider would think as others have mentioned. I will give a cache about 20-30 minutes before I typically give up. I figure that between my wife and I, if we can't find it in 20-30 minutes then we are thinking about it all wrong, or the cache is AWOL. Remember that logging DNF's isn't a bad thing. It's just another part of the Geocaching experience. You'll miss one every now and then but less and less as you gain experience.

My eTrex Legend performs best if I give it about 20 minutes in a stationary position (powered on of course) before I start using it for the day. This gives it a good update with good recpetion for the almanac data and helps keep a better fix during the day. EDIT: I also try to never power it off for the day once I turn it on, except to change batteries The accuracy level should be within about 20-30 feet before you can trust the readings. Even then 30 feet can become 60 or more with poor reception, tree cover or other reception issues. I've also accidentally moved waypoints as StarBrand describes but I resolved that problem by never clicking on the waypoints on the map. To access waypoint data I use the search button on the side of the unit to search for nearest waypoints, then view data there.

The answers you seek are all covered by Pocket Queries (PQs). PQs can allow you to search in date ranges as well as only caches that haven't been found (answer to #1), by all the various cache attributes including needs maintenance (#2). In addition once you have run your pocket query you can read the logs for the needs maintenance logs to see what that problem with the cache may be. Remember: Needs mainteance attributes alert the cache owner (CO) that the cache needs attention. You should check with the CO before attempting to fix a cache with the needs maintenance attribute. They may be happy for you to fix it, or prefer to do so themselves. This varies from owner to owner from what I've seen. I'm not clear on part 4 of your question. What do you mean about multiple caches. Do you mean more than one cache, or multi part caches (called Mutli-Caches)?

I'll add that if you don't need the 'latest and greatest' maps (i.e. not updated in the past few years) the Metroguide North America v 6.0 works fine if you convert the maps using Metrowizzz to make them routable. That's what I've done on my unit for the time being. I couldn't justify new maps just yet since most of my travels have me in areas that just haven't had that many updates to the roads with the excpetion of the ever increasing population of potholes and poor resurfacing prjoects.

There is no 'basemap' as such. Topo 2008 for the full United States is included. No basemap really needed unless you are looking for POI's for Interstates etc.. I use my old Metroguide v6.0 north america for street level mapping and it serves me well. For recently updated areas I'll use the OSM routable maps in a pinch. The Topo maps have street detail for most areas (all that I have found so far) but lack the ability to do routing, so you'll need something else for routable maps. I think most that are buying maps get the CityNavigator product for quality routable maps. Most choose the DVD version as well so they can have the maps on the computer as well as their GPS.

The screen issue probably isn't too big a deal. I'd imagine there's a problem with the shutdown sequence and power is being cut from the display before the pixels are set to off causing a 'ghosting' while the pixels slowly lose their charge and fade to off. I've seen similar behavior when the batteries get really low and the unit has an 'improper' shutdown. Any reports on GPS functionality, accuracy, etc. on this beta release?

Having the ability to have more than the few .img files on the unit is a great step forward. I'm hesitant to update because of the other issues mentioned so far.

Number of finds would seem to be unconnected to a forum participants ability to offer useful, insightful or an otherwise valuable contribution to a discussion topic. It would seem that this approach would only serve to kill the forums and choke off what is a great resource for beginners and old timers alike. I'll ignore the problems with feasibility.

I have the Mapsource v6.x Metroguide for my Legend (now use it with my Oregon too). It has the ability to create a route using Mapsource then load that route to the Legend. Creating routes on the device is a monotonous task of creating a route manually using waypoints or by clicking on the map using the pan map feature. I've done the manual method when on the road using both my detailed maps and the basemap to create rough routes by clicking on towns along my drive route on the interstate, or exits etc.. It works OK but making a route with Mapsource is much faster. Of course you can create/edit upload/download waypoints as well from Mapsource. Google "free mapsource" and you'll find ways to get mapsource for your Legend for free. In addition there are lots of free Mapsource compatible maps over at http://www.GPSFileDepot.com Best to ya,

I'd be happy to know if there was a way to do this - however I've also never heard of such... A quick and dirty Google search also yielded no relevant results.

I subscribe to the, I looked for it, but didn't find it - log a DNF with one exception (recently decided on this). I must have made a true attempt for the cache. Basically if I tried to find it, but came up against some obstacle, weather, muggle, etc. that prevented me from finding it (and I was reasonably close to ground zero) then I log it as DNF. If however I start out to the cache and get side tracked, interrupted, decide to call off the hunt before I get close to ground zero, etc. I'll either not log it, or simple submit a note if I feel it's appropriate to share the experience.

Forgot to mention - I would try to work with your reviewer and ask that the cache be published on a particular date that coincides with the fair start date. I'm also assuming that there will be admission required to access the cache location so don't forget the admission required attribute.

Not sure about temporary caches however I don't see why it would be a problem. It's just like any other cache, only difference is you will be archiving it when the fair ends. Regarding the drinks. Maybe you could have a password inside the cache. Finders just jot down the password and give it at the stand to get their free drink (and show their GPS). I would change the password daily - even use a 4H theme for the passwords. Also have the cachers sign a 'drink log' (hey - the log could be a 4H Geocaching T-Shirt) to help curb abuse. Tokens would seem to be a problem keeping up with. A password just requires in cache visit a day to change. The password reduces cache maintenance during the event letting you visit the cache during less attended times to update. Enjoy the fair!

+1 for Mapsource. I used it for a long time before getting my Oregon. I've toyed with GSAK but haven't had time to spend with it yet to really get a feel for it. What I've seen so far makes it look very useful but it is a more advanced tool with a little learning curve. I still use Mapsource to transfer the waypoints from a pocket query GPX to my backup eTrex Legend. Wife likes to be able to use the Legend while out on a hunt

All the suggestions so far are spot on. Often times especially when using a non-high sensitivity GPS (as the one you are using) you can find that how you hold the GPS can make all the difference in the world (as mrbort points out). When I cached with my eTrex Legend I tried to make sure that once I got within a reasonable distance of the cache I started holding my GPS out in front of me as if I was holding out a book to read (.1 miles is a good guideline, or even earlier in very heavy tree cover). You don't have to have your arms fully extended but hold the unit away from your body at least a foot or so with the face of the unit angled at least 45 degrees, although flat with face straight up is also very good. Keeping the unit out like this gives you much better reception as you close in on the cache. If it has been dangling at your side, around your neck, hanging on a belt loop or otherwise close to your body you'll greatly hinder reception and as a result accuracy. Remember that getting a clear view of the sky doesn't 'instantly' provide perfect accuracy. It will take a few minutes of good reception for the GPS to start to gain accuracy and collect data from the satellites, hence changing how you hold the unit at .1 miles from the cache. This technique made an enormous difference for me with my Legend. It even helps with my new Oregon under heavy tree cover. Eventually you'll get to the point that just getting within 50 feet will have you finding most of the caches you seek as you'll learn to recognize hide locations and tell tale signs of where caches are. Best of luck!

Meant to post the paragraph of interest to you. Here it is: Groundspeak Subscriptions If you have purchased a Premium Membership that is auto-renewing on any Groundspeak site, including Geocaching.com, Waymarking.com or Wherigo.com, and would like to cancel your subscription, please email contact@geocaching.com. A Groundspeak team member will deactivate your membership as quickly as possible after receiving notification.

At the bottom of most Geocaching.com pages is the Contact Us link. http://www.geocaching.com/contact/

First one under old user name back when I first heard of caching: December 5, 2001 by Tech Crew (2 found) UPDATE: Still no go. We used your clue, and searched again. Still no luck. I dug until my fingers bled from the rocks. Is is possible that the coord's are off, or that the cache has been moved or taken? First try for this one. We think we had the right coordinates, and we used 2 GPS Receivers to zone in. Wish there was a small hint on this one. Happy hunting... The Tech Crew 2nd Log on that cache a few days later yielded a FTF (and a cool window sticker that's still on my truck): December 7, 2001 by Tech Crew (2 found) Found it finally. Still not sure why we couldn't get it with the previous coordinates, but these put us right on top of it. Looks like there must be tons of deer roaming around that area. Old clothes are definately in order, especially since the ground is so wet these days. Took a Sticker, and left 4 AAA batteries. You should try to keep some of those stickers in the cache. They make for great advertising for the game! The Tech Crew! It's hard to tell above but our first log was actually two separate visits. I erroneously edited the log from our first visit to reflect an 'update' on our 2nd visit. Obviously not the right way to log. Turns out the first visit we had miskeyed the coordinates into our GPS, 2nd visit we got fixated on a pile of rocks that was close to GZ and totally overlooked the cache just about 15 feet away (there were 4 of us hunting). When we did find it we realized why we missed it. It was a large plastic container but it was well wrapped in camo netting and cleverly placed. The Tech Crew user was created as part of research and development for a science and technology lesson plan using GPS with middle and high school kids. Ultimately we hid 4 caches (unpublished) to train the teachers on how the game works and to help them find ways to make use of an outdoor classroom. Fun Fun...

Interesting approach. Glad to see that Rick and Bubba are on board. They obviously live in the real world. A local radio station here also has caches located at their station. The cache page invites players in while they are there for the cache as well.

I think this reiterates the importantce of logging DNFs when appropriate. In the OPs case and DNF log will help prepare future seekers (as mentioned by others). All too often some cache owners get offended when a DNF is posted. A real shame really. All logs (with the rare exception of a loose cannon) provide the community with that seekers experience. If it resulted in a DNF that doesn't mean there's something wrong with the cache. If there are 4 of 5 DNFs in a row then it may indicate a problem. CO's shouldn't go round just knocking DNF's off their caches IMHO. I've left a few unattempted because I arrived unprepared. If I didn't make an attempt I won't DNF the cache but I might consider posting a note or contacting the CO if I felt something was missing from the cache description.

Map segments are just like grid squares - only typically larger and not square (they can have irregular shapes based on county boundaries etc. I think the segment limit is absolute - the segments still exist even if in multiple map sets. You could load 1/2 the US as GMAPSUPP.IMG and load the other as GMAPSUPP.IMG.BAK (or .TMP etc.) Then change names by modifying the extensions when you need to be in one region or the other. Only catch is you have to have computer to hook up and make the file name changes in Mass Storage Mode.

Did marching band in Middle School and High School. Band director and I clashed during my sophomore year and I started wanting to do more than sit in the band section on Friday nights and quit band after my sophomore year. Hindsight? Wish I hadn't. Hard to pick the trumpet back up without some serious practice. I still love to see a good show whether it's a high school band, college band or a drum and bugle corp show. Nothing like top row on the 50 yard line (or press box) during the big push (except maybe playing the trumpet solo)!

Good point. In addition to that, if you aren't the Cache Owner how do you know for sure it is missing? Maybe someone just arrived before you, moved away from GZ to avoid exposing the hide site and hasn't brought it back yet because they think you may be a muggle? Maybe you just didn't find the cache. . . If you try replacing the container - lots of confusion will ensue. This is why there's a process. Missing caches or inactive caches in need of maintenance should be properly logged and we should have faith in the system. They will eventually be archived if the CO takes no action. Then that spot is available for a new hide - go for it. Until then it's the CO's responsibility and if they are AWOL the all you can do is wait and post accurate logs.

I'd be worried that a modified connector, especially heated and bent in this manner, could short or have some sort of problem. Granted, it may be a long shot of something happening that could damage the unit but lets face it. These are $350 units at a minimum, and most of us paid more than that (I've got around $400 in mine). I would hate for a short in a modified cable on a $5.00 charging cable kill my $400 Oregon. Just me but I'd seek out a cable that fits properly - there are tons out there designed for various cell phones, or use the cable that came with the unit with a 12v to USB connector as suggested by another poster.

My advice is simple. Ignore the screen issues you may see around the forums. I think they are unfounded when using the Oregon as a handheld unit in the field, in a car mount (esp. if you use a power plug when in car) or in virtually any other situation. I got 400t but when I bought it there was no price difference in the 400t and the 300. If you can get a better price on the 300, go with that. Buy the City Navigator maps, and use the freeware USGS topos. The topos are 100K on the Oregon (USGS Topos are 24K in most areas). You can get the free topos at www.gpsfiledepot.com I tried the OSM Routable street maps but they are not very good. Missing exits on interstates, bad routes, just not very reliable. I still keep the OSM freeware around for when I'm in a new area as a reference. I used Metrowizzz to convert my older Mapsource maps to routable on the Oregon and use those for normal navigation - which has proven very satisfactory. The touch screen is awesome and easy to use. Even in the face of some menu navigation that is inefficient the touch screen makes it a breeze. Pickup a nice 4Gb MicroSDHC card, RamMount suction mount for the car and a Invisible Shield screen protector and you'll be tickled pink. Of course some good NiMH batteries are good to have handy too. There are plenty of threads on good batteries to get, along with chargers if you just search for "NiMH" or "Rechargeable Batteries". Best of luck. . .