Mineral2

In short, no. Garmin makes a point in stating that their GPS units are both PC and Mac friendly. Other GPS manufacturers are less forthcoming and either don't claim Mac compatibility, or require some workarounds to get full functionality on a mac (3rd party programs, etc.).

Not entirely true. There is a web interface to Garmin Adventures, but it does require you to supply the URL to your users as the website is not searchable. Here's an example of adventures on the web: Lookout Mountain. Though, even this is not the greatest.

Maybe try Garmin Adventures? You have to use BaseCamp to create and upload. I don't know that it will automatically make a slide show of your images, but it'll display them on the map and on the side and allow you to click on them to enlarge. It's not a bad interface considering that every site has their problems. Alternately, you could contact the maintainers of HikingUpward.com and find out how they put their site together and do something similar, but it's not exactly what you're looking for.

I disagree. I find the touch screen much easier to use than scrolling through options with buttons. But, that's why we have the Oregons for those who want touch screens, and the updated 62 series for those who want buttons.

+1 Why bother with an eTrex when the Oregon 450 series are dropping in price. Ok, so you give up GLONASS and a newer software interface for a larger screen and a touch screen interface.

This is a duplicate thread (apparently got posted twice). See the other one for a better answer.

There are no descriptions or hints in a loc file. As a Premium Member, you are able to download the GPX file of a cache. That being said, I don't think that the 60CS is capable of displaying extra information contained in a gpx file. Help Center → Geocaching → Finding Geocaches 2.5. Download Cache Information http://support.Groundspeak.com/index.php?pg=kb.page&id=236 B. Has that changed recently? I used to be able to download individual GPX files (without the description) when I was a basic member.

The only difference between an eTrex 20 and an eTrex 30 is the electronic compass, barometric altimeter, and the ability to wirelessly transfer data to another Garmin unit with that feature. https://buy.garmin.com/en-US/US/catalog/product/compareResult.ep?compareProduct=87774&compareProduct=87771 Thus, yes, anything here applies to the eTrex 30, too. Really, everything in this thread applies to all modern Garmin units.

If these are small ( <500 cache) result queries, try checking the option to send the file unzipped.

Again... if you're plugging it into the computer, just fire up Basecamp, which sorts your geocaches by found/not-found (really by icon) so you can select the whole list of found caches and delete them all at once.

So, why not just invest in a handheld GPS device instead of relying on your smartphone? Advantage: these run on AA batteries, so you can always carry extras with you in the field. If the price of the Garmin Glo is representative of a bluetooth device, you should be able to pick up a second-hand or a new (but retired) model about the same price.

Basecamp is the simplest and cheapest solution, unless you want an entire PQ removed, in which case, you just delete the PQ gpx file.

The contour lines are just a visual layer on the map. But if you use Topo 100k or any of the 24k Topo series, the elevation data is embedded in the map itself such that you can: Display the map in 3-d in basecamp Get the elevation profile of your planned route in basecamp See the elevation profile of your route *ahead* of your in your GPS. Use the 3-d terrain feature in your GPS (this one is mostly useless and a battery hog anyway)

For that, you just need to display "distance to destination," though I prefer to have the Geocaching Active dashboard at the top of my map while in my geocaching profile which will also give you a small compass to point you in the right direction as well as easy links to the cache description and menu (log find, hints, etc.). When you're not actively navigating to a cache, the name, compass and distance simply point to the nearest cache.

I don't recall having any crashes zooming / panning our G600. That would be such a major flaw, if frequent, that I would probably return the device. You make me happy I didn't get the camera or the 100K maps on my Oregon. I figured this device was already complicated enough without a digital camera and all it's troubleshooting. The only real advantage of the 100k maps is that it comes with elevation data. It's useful for looking at the elevation profile in front of your route (behind is taken from your track/computer log). So far, I haven't come across any free maps with elevation data. Does that make it worth the extra cost? I dunno. At the time, I wasn't aware of the repository of awesome free maps, so I figured the 100k was better than the recreation base map. If I ever upgrade, I'll probably skip it.

A hard reset doesn't erase your data, just your settings, but just in case, you can (and should) always back it up to your computer, or save it on a micro-SD card.

um.. I think all of the recent handhelds on the market are set up for paperless geocaching. The ones that aren't are units designed for fitness (running watches, bike computers, etc.) and non-handheld devices (for cars, boats, and planes). Garmin, Magellan, DeLorme, and other companies all make geocaching handhelds. Those just happen to be the bid 3 GPS manufacturers in the States. By the way, none of them are truly dedicated to geocaching. They're good for hiking, cycling, driving (some), and other activities. I'd have a hard time believing there's a GPS out there ONLY for geocaching.

Have you loaded any caches close to "your location?" The GPS doesn't come pre-loaded with geocaches. You have to add them yourself. It should, by default, list the caches in order of distance from your location, but if you haven't picked up a signal yet, it doesn't know where you are and thus shows your last known location, which might be home.

More like Windows 95 or DOS 4.0. ah, that's not entirely true. The interface and technology at Opencaching.com isn't outdated. In fact, I'd argue that Geocaching.com is in need of a technological update. Opencaching.com is just underutilized.

One point of note: Because Opencaching.com is run by Garmin, it has some built-in features that make it handy to use with a Garmin handheld GPS. For example, you can log finds simply by plugging in your gps, and can even log and manage caches from Basecamp. But it is otherwise still functional with any other GPS. I've noticed that a lot of Opencaching.com caches are re-posts of those here at Geocaching.com (at least in my area). While that sounds nice, it's kinda dumb to log the same cache twice at different sites. Besides, you'll find way more caches posted here than over there. I'm not trying to discourage you from setting up an account at both sites, but I think many users find their opencaching accounts fairly neglected. If Geocaching.com was Facebook, Opencaching.com would be Google+. Anyway, for site usability, any of the GPS brands should work just fine. Choose your brand and models for other features. ie. Garmins tend to be more Mac-friendly than Magellans, if you're a Mac user.

Sorry. Yes, unzip the the downloaded PQ and then you'll get the two GPX files. For this reason, I always have the PQ e-mail me an un-zipped file. In fact, I'm not sure why they even bother zipping "large" PQ's these days because the gpx for even a 1000 cache file is still relatively small compared to the storage sizes and e-mail attachment size limits these days.

It could be that there is a sale coming up, and the prices were accidentally displayed early. I'd keep an eye out to see what happens.

Ok, so maybe I was exaggerating a bit. At one degree, you'll miss your target by about 90 feet if your target is a mile away. So, at 1/3 of a mile, you'd miss your target by 30 feet, which is the accepted error of a consumer GPS unit. Therefore, unless you are projecting waypoints greater than 1/3 mile, or 1760 feet, then your bearing can be off by a degree in either direction and be just fine. Thus, fractions of a degree are nominal at most projection distances. Then again, if you're projecting waypoints more than 1/3 mile away, you might as well give coordinates.

Do any of the newer nuvi's have WAAS/EGNOS capability? That's really what gives the hiking handhelds a boost in accuracy. If you're out in a very clear location with full sky, you'll probably get good coordinates, but many of the hand-helds have the ability to perform waypoint averaging, that is, the GPS takes many samples over time, averaging out the error until the standard error (sd/sqrt(n)) conforms to some acceptable threshold. This really ensures that your coordinates likely match the true location of your cache.

You can always convert to mils, which are slightly more precise than degrees. But again, unless you're projecting really long distances (100's of miles), the difference between a single degree will likely be within your GPS's normal error range. So when you get into fractions of a degree, you're really pushing the kind of precision that even a fancy orienteering compass can't resolve to. What you DO need to take note of when projecting waypoints is your north reference. If you're projecting waypoints from another user's directions, make sure you know whether that user is giving you directions according to magnetic or true north. If you're projecting waypoints for others to follow, be sure to note that in your instructions.