WITrailRider

Both are SOLD

Purchased early this year for geocaching. Want to get into geotagging the photos, so we're upgrading. Asking 265 plus shipping. Contents: Oregon 300 Carabiner clip Mini-USB cable Zagg Invisible Shield Quickstart guide, manual, CD-ROM, and original box

I've been using 2.97 since it came out and have had excellent success with it. Yesterday, I threw in the towel and loaded 2.98. Complete mess. After leaving it on the hood of my car out in the open for 20 minutes the best EPE I got was 40ft. I checked and I had 4 satellites with D's on them. When I turned WAAS off, the EPE dropped to 16ft. However, when I went to find a cache, as soon as I got under tree cover the EPE was all over the place. I managed to find the cache based upon it's hint. My GPS still said I was 35' away. I turned WAAS back on and now I was 100' off. I reloaded 2.97 today and went back to the same cache. At GZ I was 5 feet away. I guess I am not feeling the love with 2.98.

I flashed both my wife's and my Oregon up to 2.95 this last weekend. Mine was at 2.93 and her's was at 2.85. In addition, she has Garmin CN NT (SD Card version) and I use the free Ibycus maps. We were able to get great locks on the satellites and our accuracy was great. In fact, I had set my GPS on a log and it was showing the cache was 1 ft away. The cache turned out to be underneath it. In short, 2.95 is sweet. The odd thing we did experience was her GPS shut off 4 different times. Each time she was moving around or back out of a map. AND each time she was moving - in the car or walking back to the car. And I checked, it wasnt her just being impatient. When she pushed the power button, it booted up and took it back to the menu. I was able to navigate in and out of the map on my unit without any problems. Of course I do not have auto routing so that may also account for the difference. I reflashed her unit with 2.95, but it just booted normally afterward. I am thinking of flashing her back to 2.93, and the up to 2.95 just to see if it makes any difference. Does anyone else have any thoughts?

Mee too, with plenty of mustard! and a lot of ketchup Deep fried! They taste just like chicken...

After reading your solution, I wonder if a set of hand warmers would work. The ones we have will generate 100 degrees heat for 10 hours.

As a team we had both a 76Csx and a 60Csx. We updated to the Oregon. At first, I was a bit bummed by the extra navigating and changes to the way the Oregon worked when compared to two above. However, aside from the annoying battery meter, we love the Oregons for caching. You can re-arrange your menus to put the most used icons together. I hold my unit in my hand and use my thumb to get to most anywhere in a few touches. Personally, now that I am used to it, I navigate faster than I did with my 76. When navigating, we flip between the map and the turn by turn directions so it wasnt a big change for us. I usually used the compass, so the missing data fields on the map means I can see more map. And having all the cache page info on the GPS is fantastic. Yes, I probably use about 20% of the unit's capabilities, but that serves 90% of my needs. Right now we carry an extra set of batteries to make up for the goofy bat meter, but we very satisfied with the Oregon as it is now and can only see it getting better.

Sorry guys, but yes that is exactly what I was asking. I added a comment to remind me where I dropped a travel bug. Imagine my surprise when I couldnt find which cache we dropped it at. I'd rather not have to hook up to a computer or upload to GC.com just to view a note. Seems a bit much. However, thanks for the replies.

Has anyone logged their cache attempt as found and then added a comment? For the life of me, I cannot figure out how to retrieve that comment. I bet I played around for 3 hours trying to find where it went. I've tried turning it into a waypoint. I'm at a loss. Any help would be appreciated.

I wont waste anyones time echoing all the good advice already given. However, we have found that caches we couldnt find in the daylight showed up much better at night. There are not many things in the woods that reflect light, but camo tape and many paints used on cache containers sure do. Even a shiny bison tube in a pine tree stands out like a christmas ornament at night.

That is what I understood from the guidelines as well, however I am left with 3 choices, beg the land owner to let me publish his name, appeal or just archive the cache. The reviewer will not publish it as is. I agree Oki - some hides are not worth the effort.

I am hoping the reviewers in the forums can help me understand the hiding guidelines as they pertain to private property. A while ago, I place a cache on private property with permission from the property owner, and stated such on the cache page, however the reviewer would not publish the cache until I put the actual property owners name on the page. The reasoning was the land was narrow and if a cacher accidentally tresspassed on the property next to them, it might help explain things. The owners were not to happy with the idea, but agreed to let me do it. Since then at least two more caches have been published in WI, each with permission granted by the owner; no names. I did note that the caches were published by a different reviewer. I placed a cache on a historical sign next to a public sidewalk. The reviewer said it looked like it could be private property and had me call the local assessors office. They originally said it was public property, but when I explained to them that I wanted to use it for geocaching and need to know for sure, they researched it and found out it was on private land. I contacted the owner and he granted permission. Once again the reviewer will not publish the cache unless I put the persons name on the cache page. This time the reasoning is that everybodys name is all over the internet anyways. So I am looking for the proper interpretation of what geocaching.com requires. I am thinking I am doing something wrong, or the reviewers in Wisconsin are not consistent on their application of the guide lines. So whats the advice?

I'm having a hard time making a decision. I have a new OR unit and have only put batteries in it and turned it on. I am trying to decide if I should leave what ever version of the software on the unit alone or should I go to 2.5? My friend upgraded his right out of the box to 2.5 and we've seen only one issue one time where it told us the cache was several miles away even though it was more like 200 ft. Rebooting the GPS took care of that problem. After reading all the forums and Wiki, it sound like going to 2.5 is a bad idea, his seems to work just fine. Any thoughts?

Ohhhh THERE'S the trail, I guess we didnt need to bushwack the last quarter mile Not to worry I have my knee high boots on, the waters not that deep...

Have both GSAK and a 60CSX and without changing any GSAK settings the blue flags are Temp Archived caches. Lakebum is correct.

We bought and tested serveral lamps, including petzl models and black diamond. Finally settled on cabels alaskan guide series. Not the smallest or lightest, but it threw a good beam, uses AA bateries like the GPS (and we always have plenty of those on us) and felt balanced on our head. And its very easy on the batteries. Half our caching last summer was a night and they didnt let us down.

I have been using a Palm Tx to take cache information with me on the hunt. I am thinking of trading that in on a Samsung Q1 ultra, so that I can not only carry cache information, but use Google Earth in the field as well. I suppose I could even load GSAK too. And I could upload to my GPS through the USB ports. I have carried a 5lb laptop with me on a 6 stage multi. Aside from the screen glare, being able to see waypoints on the aerials to choose proper trails was awesome. I was wondering if anyone else was doing this? In addition, of course I would welcome all constructive comments. Thanks

We have hiked the IAT in the southern kettle moraine and can say the trails are great, very scenic and there are shelters you can reserve for camping in. They are pretty popular though and you might have to do some advanced planning.

Just to chime in here on several thoughts. We have invisibleshields on both our GPSs. We also are using cases by foarm to protect the rest of the unit. It has cut-outs for the buttons and screen. Its been a great combo. A few weeks ago, my wife set her GPS on the ground and sprayed herself with bug repellant. It must have misted over to her screen and it turned the whole thing foggy. She called invisbleshield and they sent her a new one. I did try spraying a clear plastic spoon with the same repellant and sure enough it attacked the plastic. We would have been really bummed out if it had been her screen and not the invisibleshield.

We print all the cache pages to PDF files and use a program called PalmPDF to view them. This way you get the page you see on the screen and ALL the logs. For mass production, you'll find Cachemate faster, we couldn't get used to the feel of it.

I think FLHTPI is referring to the map page you get went you click in the map image on a cache page. The only way I found to do it is print screen the window and paste it into Word.

I was kidnapped by a group that are in the Krypton Membership Level. But they put me back before I woke up.

Remember, the GPS gets you to the area. When you zero out, imagine that there is a 20ft radius around you that the cache could be hidden, then think 'If I were to hide this cache where would I put it.' Now, the reality is if your GPS is off and the hider had the same problem, you could be in a 40ft area. If your GPS is jumpy, that can throw you off. Best to put it down and see if it gives you a consisten direction. This last weekend, we found one that was 90 ft from where my GPS zeroed out. Even more interesting if you cache with a friend and your GPSs dont agree. When we are walking they are different by 20ft. Have patience, you'll get a feel for it. Also you might check the logs ahead of time to see if people have found it recently. We spent an hour looking for a 1 difficulty, only to find that the all the 10 people before us didnt find it either; it was muggled.

According to DeLorme techsupport, you can also upload aerial views of the maps to your Palm. Getting ready to order a copy the Street Atlas for myself after getting the response back from them.

Is there any websites that can convert WGS84 DDD MM SS.SSSS to WGS84 DDD MM.MMM? I want to convert the Google Earth waypoints to something I can put into Mapsource. Thanks!