linuxxpert

I am sure this has been asked before but I will ask anyways I live in Macungie, PA and was wondering if any of the locals know about an inexpensive source for ammo-boxes. I have been getting them at the Army-Navy store on grape street in Allentown for $10 + tax, however I heard people are getting them for $5-$6. Any help would be greatly appreciated. --Dutch

My walmart has it in the tool section with all the other duct tapes...

Have more search options/filters on GC.com sorta like GSAK, without having to run PQs.

I have actually put finding caches on hold a bit to start hiding caches.... Some of them take weeks to prepare and cost a few hundred dollars but its so much fun.... Working on my 10th and 11th now... one of them is very creative... just waiting on some parts I ordered to go hide it. I dont think I will ever reach a hundred.. there is just not enough time and money for the kind of caches I try to put out there.

I wish I was as informative as you. Got to learn to add value to my posts!

I own 2.... one of them is seriously unrated as a 5/5.... only one team found it so far... its pretty much automatically a 5 terrain rating if you need special equipment.. however I feel when you can actually can get seriously hurt or even die if you are not careful its also a 5 terrain rating Difficultly is usually overrated.. I have done a few 5/5s where the terrain was really a five but the cache was an easy find... You can increase the difficulty by adding a puzzle or make it a really really hard find which is usually just annoying.. at least for me.. I am more of a high terrain guy even though I own a few difficult puzzles myself... guess that makes me a hypocrite!

Great to hear you are saving trees! However I think most of use are aware of paperless caching. As a premium member you can download pdf-s directly from the cache page... the site generates it for you and you have access to pocket queries.... you may want to do some research on that - its worth every penny!

I own a few.. not too difficult.. just check my profile

Maybe a bit of adhesive felt between the magnets would dampen the blow? I've done a fair amount of work with rare-earth magnets (not "earth" magnets, as some call them). You can get rubber coated ones from some sources, but the rubber coating does lessen the attraction to some extent. Yes, they are brittle and can "explode" if allowed to slam together. They can also pinch and cause blood blisters and even broken bones. And don't forget that if they pinch you, you've got to pull them apart to get that skin out. I recently bought some with 52 lbs attraction, and its all but impossible to separate them without a specialized tool. Don't try to roughen them up. First of all, if they are chrome plated (most are) you won't have any luck. Second, if you do, you'll be removing the anti-oxidation coating, and these things corrode very quickly without it (paint or the epoxy would of course, slow that down). The problems with epoxy or any other glue has as much to do with what you are gluing and what are you glueing to. A physical bond of any sort is always preferable to smooth, flat surfaces. One problem I've run into with using expoy to glue supermagnets to Bison tubes here in Minnesota, is that the expansion and contraction of the aluminum is different enough from the neodymium that the epoxy separates. Oh, it'll stick like the devil to whichever half of the equation it decided to bond with, but slide right off of the other. Here's a useful FAQ that covers some of these points: http://www.kjmagnetics.com/faq.asp And for those of you that, like me, decide to play magnets that are so powerful that you can't separate them, here's how the pros do it: http://www.kjmagnetics.com/buildamagnetseparator.asp Wow that faq has alot of info... thanks!

Maybe a bit of adhesive felt between the magnets would dampen the blow?

Not a problem, one end will always be 16'-20' up in the air..... just hoping that cachers will be strong enough to pull these 2 magnets apart! Unless you meant that "I" should be careful handling them... then I thank you for your concern

Thank you trainlove, thats exactly the answer I was hoping for... this is going to be great!

I am glad I did not get the 60lbs ones!

That calculates magnet to steel... I have that; 30 lbs.... just cant figure out what magnet to magnet would be at least with the limited information I have.. I already ordered the magnets so maybe I should just wait and experiment. Maybe someone can give me a ballpark number? Hopefully the epoxy will hold, I want to use JB weld to glue the magnets to aluminum.. think this will work? Should I rough up the magnets and aluminum first? Its gotta be strong!

Yeah I will put a warning on the cache page and near the contraption itself, untouched the contraption will be 16'-20' feet up on the air so it will be far away from any pacemaker. Back to the original Does somebody know about the pull force for sure? EDIT: Maybe I should add that they are 1/2" cube magnets.

Most of my new caches hold "prize money"

Here is a question for a science person. I am working on a cool cache contraption, I am looking to use a magnet with a rated 30 lbs pull force. My question is, if 2 of those magnets are "stuck" to each other is there a 60 lbs force required to pull them apart? If not, what would be the force required to pull them apart? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you, --Dutch

Rite In The Rain paper - best stuff out there, have only found it online though and its expensive.. but worth every penny! EDIT: SPEELING

I have left scratch tickets, $25 restaurant gift certificate, $10 cash, $20 cash, set of brand new midland walkies and now I am working on leaving a unactivated geocoin in a new cache.

EDIT: Really got to read all the posts first.

At "Too Difficult, too dangerous and just too crazy" or as people now call it "tootootoo" you WILL need gear.

I've seen items attached to concrete with a type of mastic/adhesive that was grey in color, went on with a small putty knife and dried to a hard substance. But, I can't remember the name of it. The tube could be attached with a small dab of that. No structural damage from that, just cosmetic. I'll try some research to see if I can find the name of it. Just so long as it is only cosmetic damage. Ummmm.... the first definition of DEFACE is COSMETIC DAMAGE. How can one presume that doing cosmetic damage is not, in fact, defacement? Completely in agreement here, thats why I was asking for advice.... anyone can figure out how to attach something to concrete, now how to do it without defacing it, is a different story. Anyone else have any ideas?

You could gat arrested for defacing property. I think the original question included "without defacing property" I really wish that people would read all the posts.....

I cache that way, I load my PQs in my garmin 60csx as geocaches with gsak and then then load my garmin nuvi 360 with the same file but as custom POI (that way they dont show up in favorites) I also have my nuvi set up with alerts, so when I drive around and get within 1200 feet of a cache I can stop and get a quick cache fix . In addition, I load up my palm with the same PQs and then I have all the info I need. It really works great, however you have to be a little bit computer savy and be willing to spent 15 minutes loading up the different units... most of the time it lasts me a few weeks until I feel the PQs are outdated and I have to refresh them. I have all the maps installed on my garmin 60csx but car navigation is FAAARRR superior on the Nuvi. I only use routing in the handheld when I need to do a quick FTF. I started out caching with the Nuvi only, but after a few close calls in dropping or getting it wet I got the 60csx. Hope this helps, if you have more questions just PM me. --Dutch

Check out my 5/5s.... Not much detail in the logs, but if you want to know more you can PM me.